Carlin Peas Recipe | The Forgotten Bonfire Night Tradition of the North East
There’s something about Bonfire Night that stirs up nostalgia. The smell of woodsmoke in the air, fireworks lighting up the dark and children clutching sparklers in mittened hands.
My husband remembers when Bonfire Night was a whole-street affair. As children, they would collect wood for the bonfire and hide it until the big day in case the council took it away. When the night finally arrived, everyone gathered around the fire and each household brought something to eat.
We still have our own Bonfire Night traditions, with hot dogs, toffee apples and hot drinks, but until recently there was one old North East dish I’d never actually tried: carlin peas.
I’d written about this traditional dish years ago, but somehow I’d never eaten it myself. So this year I decided it was time to put that right.
What Are Carlin Peas?
Carlin peas are small brown heritage peas with a nutty, earthy flavour. You may also come across them under names such as maple peas, brown peas, pigeon peas or black badgers.
Once soaked and cooked, they stay quite firm and have a texture rather like a chickpea. Traditionally in the North East they are cooked until tender, then fried in butter or dripping and seasoned with pepper and vinegar.
You may also hear the name parched peas, particularly in Lancashire, where there is a related Bonfire Night tradition. There the peas are usually slowly boiled and served with plenty of vinegar rather than fried in the North East style.
These days Carlin peas are much less familiar than they once were, but they survive as one of northern England’s distinctive regional foods.
Carlin Sunday and the Stories Behind It
Carlin Sunday is the fifth Sunday in Lent, traditionally associated with eating Carlin peas in parts of the North East. It falls two Sundays before Easter and is one of several Sundays in Lent that acquired its own traditional name.
Heritage recipes often come wrapped in a little mystery, each family passing down its own version of how it began. Carlin peas are no exception, and nobody seems to know for certain which, if any, of the stories behind the tradition is the true one.
One of the best-known legends takes us back to the siege of Newcastle in 1644, when the Royalist city was surrounded by Scottish forces during the English Civil War. According to the story, a ship carrying peas provided desperately needed food. Depending on the version, the ship was French or Norwegian.
Another version moves the story down the Tyne to South Shields, where a ship carrying peas is said to have run aground and its cargo helped feed local people. An even earlier tale connects the tradition with Robert the Bruce and events in 1327.
The details change, but the theme running through these stories is remarkably persistent: hungry people, a ship and a welcome cargo of peas.
What we do know is that eating Carlin peas became associated with Carlin Sunday during Lent, a tradition that survived for generations in the North East. Beamish still marks Carlin Sunday today, helping to keep this lesser-known piece of North East food heritage alive.
Bonfire Night in the North East
For many people who grew up in the North East, Bonfire Night was never just about fireworks. It was about people.
My husband remembers it as a whole-street occasion when he was growing up. Weeks before the fifth of November, the kids roamed the estate collecting pallets and old fences for the bonfire, piling them high and guarding their stash like treasure. They even hid the wood so the council couldn’t take it away before the big night.
When the fifth of November finally arrived, everyone gathered around the fire and each household brought something to eat. He remembers a big pot of soup simmering, along with the other food people had brought to share. There were no organisers or wristbands, just families, laughter, and the smell of smoke in the air.
With a bowl of hot soup in your hands, at least for a little while, you could forget the cold.
What I love about his memories is how ordinary food became part of a community ritual. Nothing needed to be elaborate. People brought something to share and ate together around the fire.
Our Bonfire Nights are different now, but food is still part of them. We usually have hot dogs, toffee apples and hot drinks while we watch the fireworks.
But there was one traditional dish missing from both Rob’s memories and our own Bonfire Nights: Carlin peas.
Why Carlin Peas Deserve a Comeback
Until I remade this recipe, I had never actually eaten Carlin peas. Despite living in the North East and writing about them years ago, they had somehow passed me by.
I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but I liked them. They have an earthy, nutty flavour and are surprisingly substantial for such a simple dish. For me, though, the vinegar makes them. That sharp splash of vinegar with the buttery peas turns something very simple into something rather moreish.
Rob wasn’t quite as convinced, so perhaps Carlin peas are one of those traditional foods that divide the table.
And I think Carlin peas are worth remembering. They are a small piece of North East food heritage that could easily disappear from our kitchens if we stop making them.
Maybe we don’t have bonfires at the end of the street any more, but a pot of Carlin peas on a dark November evening can still bring people together. Even if it’s just around your own table, there’s something comforting about keeping an old tradition alive.
So, if you’ve never tried them either, here’s how I made my first proper bowl of Carlin peas.
Equipment You’ll Need
- Large bowl – to soak the peas
- Large saucepan
- Colander
- Frying pan
- Wooden spoon
How to Cook Carlin Peas
Looking for the printable recipe?
Scroll down for the full recipe card with exact quantities and step-by-step instructions.
Carlin peas are simple to make. They need an overnight soak, followed by a gentle simmer until tender, then just a few minutes in the frying pan.
1. Soak the Peas Overnight
Rinse your dried Carlin peas under cold running water, then place them in a large bowl. Cover with plenty of cold water, as they’ll double in size, and leave to soak overnight (8–12 hours).
2. Simmer Until Tender
Drain and rinse the soaked peas, then tip them into a large pan and cover with fresh water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until tender. This usually takes around 1–1½ hours, but the exact cooking time will vary, so taste one to check.
3. Drain and Prepare to Fry
Drain the peas well and let them steam dry for a few minutes.
4. Fry in Butter or Dripping
Melt a good knob of butter or beef dripping in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the peas and fry for 2–3 minutes, stirring regularly so they don’t catch.
5. Season Generously
Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then add a good splash of malt vinegar. Taste and add a little more vinegar if you like. For me, the vinegar is what really brings the peas to life.
6. Serve and Enjoy
Serve the Carlin peas hot, with extra malt vinegar on the table for anyone who wants another splash.
Heritage tip: Not everyone ate their Carlin peas with salt, pepper and vinegar. Some traditional variations sweetened them with brown sugar and sometimes a splash of rum. Recipes varied between regions and families.
Carlin Peas Recipe Card
Carlin Peas (Bonfire Night Carlin Peas)
Equipment
- 1 Large bowl
- 1 Large pan
- 1 colander
- 1 Frying pan
- 1 Wooden spoon
Ingredients
- 200 g dried carlin peas (also called maple peas/black badgers)
- 30 g butter unsalted, or beef dripping
- 1-2 tbsp malt vinegar to taste
- salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Instructions
Soak the Peas
- Rinse the dried Carlin peas, cover with plenty of cold water and soak overnight for 8–12 hours.
Simmer
- Drain and rinse the soaked peas, then place them in a large pan and cover with fresh water.
- Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the peas are soft. This usually takes around 1–1½ hours, but the exact cooking time can vary, so taste one to check.
- Drain well and leave to steam dry for a few minutes.
Fry
- Melt the butter or dripping in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the drained peas and fry for 2–3 minutes, stirring regularly so they don't catch.
Season
- Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then add 1 tablespoon of malt vinegar. Taste and add more vinegar if you like.
- Serve hot.
Notes
- Sweet variation: Some traditional versions use brown sugar and sometimes a splash of rum instead of the savoury salt-and-vinegar seasoning.
- Vegan option: Use a suitable dairy-free butter or vegetable oil in place of butter or dripping.
- Substitutions: You may find Carlin peas sold under names such as maple peas or black badgers. Avoid substituting marrowfat peas, as the texture and flavour will be different.
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Where to Buy Carlin Peas
Carlin peas can be a little harder to find than more familiar dried pulses, but they are still available in the UK.
I used dried Carlin peas for this recipe. You can buy them online from Hodmedod’s, who sell British-grown whole Carlin peas. You may also find them labelled as black or maple peas.
Ready-cooked Carlin peas are available in tins and jars too, but if you want to make the traditional recipe below from dried peas, check the packet carefully before buying.
Finding them feels like uncovering a little treasure. When you do, it can be worth stocking up, as dried Carlin peas keep well when stored in a cool, dry cupboard.
How to Grow Your Own
If you’re a keen gardener, you can grow Carlin peas at home as a drying pea.
Sow the seeds outdoors from April to May, about 5 cm deep and 5 cm apart. Give the plants netting or another support to climb as they grow. The Minerva variety reaches around 1 to 1.4 metres tall and produces pretty purple and lilac flowers.
Leave the pods to mature so the peas can be harvested for drying later in the summer.
You can buy Carlin pea seed from specialist seed suppliers, including Kings Seeds.
How to Serve Carlin Peas Today
Carlin peas are traditionally served simply, with butter or dripping, salt, pepper and a good splash of malt vinegar. I enjoyed them hot just as they were, with extra vinegar to taste.
They work well as a simple snack or side dish, particularly on a cold autumn evening. And I can’t imagine a pint of local ale going badly with them while the fireworks crackle outside.
Traditionally, Carlin peas were also served in paper or newspaper cones, particularly in pubs and at fairs. I couldn’t resist the idea, so I served mine in a little cone made from baking parchment.
November in the North East
November has its own quiet beauty here. The trees stand bare, the wind feels sharper, and frosty mornings begin to appear. It is the time of year when the kitchen becomes the heart of the house.
Carlin peas belong to that moment between autumn and winter, when the nights close in and a simple bowl of something hot and savoury feels like both comfort and connection to the past. So this Bonfire Night, as the fireworks crackle outside, why not put a pan of Carlin peas on the stove and discover this old North East dish for yourself?
Try It Yourself
If you make Carlin peas this year, I’d love to know what you think. And if they’re already part of your family’s traditions, I’d especially love to hear your memories.
Did your family eat Carlin peas on Carlin Sunday? How did you serve them?
Leave a comment below and tell me. These are exactly the little pieces of family food history I’d love to preserve.
And if you enjoy recipes like this, have a look at my Stottie Cake and Pease Pudding recipes too.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Carlin peas are small brown heritage peas with a nutty, earthy flavour. They are also known as maple peas, brown peas, pigeon peas and black badgers. Once soaked and cooked, they remain quite firm, with a texture rather like a chickpea.
Carlin peas are traditionally associated with Carlin Sunday, the fifth Sunday in Lent, particularly in the North East of England. There are several legends about how the tradition began, including stories of ships carrying peas to people during times of siege or hardship, but the exact origin isn’t known.
Yes, Carlin peas are also associated with Bonfire Night in northern England. In the North East they can be served with butter or dripping, salt, pepper and malt vinegar. Lancashire has the related tradition of parched peas.
Dried Carlin peas are available from specialist food suppliers such as Hodmedod’s and may also be sold as maple peas. Ready-cooked Carlin peas are available in some tins and jars, so check what you’re buying if you want to make this recipe from dried peas.
Yes. Carlin peas can be grown in the UK as a drying pea. Sow them outdoors in spring and give the plants support as they grow. Leave the pods to mature before harvesting the peas for drying.
